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  • Estoy Aqui

    20 years I've waited for this (cue Shakira) ...y ahora estoy aqui...

    Friday, October 27, 2006

    Sea Squall!

    Today, I went running along the Rambla. It was sunny for about three minutes, before the clouds started rolling in over the water; it got dark and this incredible wind came out of nowhere. I was in an adventurous mood and found this all rather exciting. So instead of turning around and heading home to avoid getting caught up in the storm that was obviously brewing, I kept on going. Pretty soon, I was the only one on the Rambla. Before I even knew what was happening, I was soaked. The rain was dripping off my forehead into my eyes, but it didn't matter that I couldn't see because there was no one to bump into. It wasn't until I realized that it probably wasn't a good idea to get my ipod wet that I decided to turn around. So I ran through the rain, through the puddles, through the wind and was feeling quite invigorated that I was caught in the midst of a sea squall! I saw a ship in the distance and swore it was flying a pirate flag. My imagination took off and pretty soon I was on a sea adventure! Suddenly, something struck me as odd; he smell of salt in the air was missing. It was then that it dawned on me that the Rambla doesn't actually run alongside the sea but rather the Rio de la Plata, which is a river, a freshwater river. Oh well, I suppose since it's the widest river in the world, it's almost like an ocean...

    Sunday, October 22, 2006

    The Rambla

    There is a place in Montevideo where the city ends and the Río de la Plata begins. They are two worlds, really, earth and water, daughters of two gods. Each with a color, an energy, a soul of its own. Despite this, it is evident in the sidewalks that slope gently downwards towards the water and in the waves that lap up against the rocks, hoping for a taste of earth, that city and river are drawn to one another. Alas, these two worlds, for all the curiosity, for all the flirting, remain apart, divided by the Rambla. A simple stretch of sidewalk perhaps twenty feet wide and twenty kilometers long, the Rambla belongs to neither world. It is in and of itself an entirely separate dimension. The Rambla, in fact, may well be the birthplace of eternity, for it is the only place on earth where you can sit and watch the world go by without taking part.

    On the Rambla you settle into a rinconcito to read to write to sleep to imagine what it would be like to be in love to grow old and you count the bricks on the boardwalk the clouds in the sky the wrinkles on your hand and you try to count the waves but you can’t because they are gone before you get one and you ask yourself if the same thing happens to God when he looks down on the men he’s created and if that’s why there are too many people in China and the cars fly by at seventy kilometers an hour and you wonder if they remember to breath and in sixty minutes there will be seventy kilometers between you and that yellow Volkswagen but the driver with the bushy mustache won’t know it because he never saw your face and you don’t pretend to know how fast the river travels and you don’t know where that wave that licked the cuff of your jeans will be in an hour but you think that it might be the same wave that carried your great-grandparents to the New World or the same cloud that rained on the rice fields in Thailand and the city and the river even the sky rush by each knowing the difference between tomorrow and last year and it is only

    you
    that is
    still.

    You and everyone else on the Rambla, all suspended in that narrow space between two worlds. And you think to yourself that Heraclitus was almost right but that he must not have known about this place at the edge of the world where everything is still, where you can wonder without getting lost, where Bob Marley is alive and where even the dogs look stoned.

    Friday, October 13, 2006

    Friday the 13th: the perfect day to reflect on life...

    They say you pass through this life but once. And among life’s greatest paradoxes is, as your grandparents will tell you, wishing at eighty that you’d known at twenty all you know now and not having known at twenty just how much there was you didn’t know. But what if you could live a life within a life? A sort of accelerated life in which you are born and die all within the course of your natural lifetime?
    I was born at 11:15 a.m. on May 13th, 1986. On July 27th, twenty years later, I packed my suitcase and left behind the life I knew. On the plane, nine hours passed like nine months, and as though it had been dropped by a stork, the rather large, white bundle otherwise known as a 747 drifted through layers of clouds and landed with a thud on the ground in a strange land. I was struck by the uncanny (yet slightly eerie) resemblance that the journey through the airport sleeve bore to the passage I’d made twenty years earlier as I exited my mother’s womb. I emerged exhausted, cold, frightened. The fluorescent lights left me momentarily blinded, and I felt so lost and vulnerable that I might as well have been lying naked upon an obstetrician’s table.
    My legs wobbled like a toddler’s as I passed through customs, but over the course of a half an hour or so, I gradually re-mastered the art of walking. I spent the next couple of weeks learning effective methods of asking for help, ordering food and fulfilling other basic needs. I even completed a course in public restroom smarts, which I will refer to, for the sake of comparison as well as humor, as “potty training.” That is, I learned to locate restrooms without attendants so as to avoid paying, how to strategically hang my coat to keep shut doors without locks and to always carry tissues and hand sanitizer, since many bathrooms don’t have toilet paper or soap. The first month was filled with trying new foods, some of which made me sick, taking long naps in the middle of the day and crying at night. Finally, the linguist in me could fill a hundred pages on the topic of language acquisition, but suffice it to say, I learned, as a child does, the words I needed to function and found myself constantly surrounded by people correcting my grammar.
    I entered next into the “school age,” where I started classes and learned how to handle myself in a new academic setting. Although I still clung to whatever mother figures I could find, I began to go out more on my own and make friends at school. I also started to learn “bad words!” After that, I plunged dramatically into a teenage funk that was dominated by rebellion, the search for identity and belonging, long hours on the phone, a boatload of angst and an overall emotional rollercoaster. It culminated in domestic warfare and me moving out.
    I feel recently as though I’ve made it to age twenty. That means being independent, having a little confidence; it means college, essays and exams. It means dating. It means living with other “twenty-somethings” and finding a community of people my own age. But most importantly, it means I can finally be me. I am no longer younger than I was before I boarded the plane for Uruguay. It means that my accelerated life has caught up with my natural life and I am now in a position to grow and move forward. It’s a fascinating opportunity, because next July, when this life draws to a close, I will return to my natural life only one year older but with all the experiences and wisdom of a small lifetime.